Also offered by most machines, the differential feed of the front and rear claws are particularly useful on sergers that cover working stretchy materials. When the machine is on the standard setting (1 or N) the claws advance at the same speed. This is suitable for finishing warp and weft fabrics.
When the front claws advance faster than the rear claws, this allows the fabric to be tightened under the presser foot. This prevents stretchy material from warping -1.5). Pushed to the maximum (2) and associated with a maximum stitch length (4 or 5), this setting allows you to gather warp and weft materials.
When the front claws advance less quickly than the rear claws (setting smaller than 1) the extensible materials are stretched, this makes it possible to obtain, for example, so-called lettuce rolls. With the best entry level serger you can find the right solutions now.
The number of stitches of an overlock serger
3 families of stitches of a combined serger-overlayer
Overlock-overlay combinations offer overlock, overlap and mixed stitches that combine an overlock stitch and an overlap stitch.
- Overlock stitches
- 3 thread overlock stitch4 thread overlock stitch
- Examples of overlock stitches
The overlock stitches run between the edge of the fabric, materialized by the position of the knife, and the left-most used needle. For single needle stitches, the width of the stitches is therefore determined by the position of the needle. This position can be refined by moving the knife on the machines that offer this adjustment.
All machines offer 3 or 4 thread overlock stitches. To offer 2-thread overlock stitches, the machine must have a 2-thread converter which deactivates the upper looper without blocking it.
The overlock stitches with 3 or 4 threads and 2 needles are interesting because they are even more extensible than the others.
The point “flatlock” is very widespread, it is interesting to decorate your works.
The overlap points run between the leftmost needle and the rightmost needle. For the 3-needle cover there is only one possible width. For 2-needle stitches, there are two possible widths, depending on whether or not the central needle is used.
5-wire security point
The safety points combine a 2 or 3 thread overlock and a chain stitch. They are available on most overlock-overlay combinations. Some machines that offer up to 8 threads have a wider range of compound stitches (Babylock Evolution and Ovation)
The other points
Some manufacturers offer rarer or even truly original items. This is the case of the covering point with loops above and below (topstitching of the raglans of sweet-shirt), or double covering point (identical top and bottom) proposed by Janome, of the festoon point proposed by some manufacturers and points Wave offered only by certain machines of the Babylock range.
The working space is measured by the distance between the needle block and the body of the sewing machine. the larger this space, the more comfortable it will be to work, especially in overlapping. Some machines have a very restricted space which allows them to work in overlap only to topstitch hems.
Threading the looper
Threading the looper can be simplified in several ways. The best of the best is the air jet method (Babylock). Other machines offer easier threading of the lower loops more or less automatic. A color code for the different routes to be taken by the wires is almost always offered.
Transformation from serger to coater and vice versa
- It almost always includes the same operations, these can be performed more or less comfortably.
The free arm
- The free arm and extremely rare on overlock-overlay combinations.
It is important that your machine is well lit so that you can work in good conditions. This lighting can dazzle or not, heat or not, it may or may not be low consumption. Pay attention to this criterion, your eyes will thank you.